At Dhamaka, Indian village food comes to the city

Last winter, Chintan Pandya, one of the most celebrated Indian chefs in the United States, was in his dining room at home, wondering what his next restaurant could be. His wife, Namrata, offered him a bowl of thinly sliced potatoes and a gourd commonly known as tindora in Hindi, sautéed with cumin, ginger, green chile and turmeric.

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